USA Trip 2024 - Conclusion

What a fine trip it was. Excellent scenery, brilliant climbing, and crucially: unfinished business on some boulders. Even writing this nearly a year later*, I still get excited.

Before the trip, I was planning on this being a one-time visit, given the distance, expense and logistics, to be done in addition to other far-flung destinations like Rocklands, Castle Hill, Hueco, Squamish, and The Grampians, but I must admit that I am a bit more psyched for a return trip than many of these (except perhaps Castle Hill, though the logistics for that are pretty immense!)

Below are some handily organised thoughts, including some best-ofs. I’ve only recommended the stuff I’ve done, and of course it’s a list of favourites from a 190cm meathead, it may not line up with yours!

_{*November ‘25, but backdated so posts are grouped nicely}

What Was Good?

The Buttermilks

Obviously! Huge aesthetic boulders, strong lines, grippy rock. Most of the rock was good quality, though some of the less travelled areas did have a bit of scrittle or snappy flakes, but that is true for anywhere else I’ve ever climbed (except Magic Wood? I’m not sure any part of that could be considered “less travelled”). Most of the landings were perfect, only cambered slightly unhelpfully if you were climbing on the downhill face.

The picks of the bunch for me must be: Solitaire, Bowling Pin, Xen, Buttermilk Stem

The Druid Stones

The slightly wild, dishevelled brother of the ‘milks. Same sort of rock, less travelled, a bit more “out there”. Due to the approach, we only took a pad each, which was fine for many things, but extra foam is always nice to have, especially on the lines where you cover a decent amount of horizontal ground. The ‘milks was enchanting, but the Druids were pure magic.

Top bloc: Thunder (I wish I had more to put here, I only climbed two!)

The Happy Boulders

Surprisingly different from the Buttermilks. The rock is finely grained, with pointier features and generally more challenging landings. I would say it is good for when it’s a bit fierce out at the ‘milks, or your tips are a bit thin and weepy. It was certainly decent, but it’s not the primary draw of Bishop, just a handy detour from the main events.

Best boulders: Not Another Brit In Bishop, Classique

The Sad Boulders

Despite being less than a mile from the Happies, the climbing is surprisingly different! More blankness, stronger features, and more slippery texture. Landings are similarly challenging, I’d say. Another good one for when skin can’t handle the coarseness of the Buttermilks - but make sure your muscles are firing! I think I preferred this slightly to the Happies, but again, quite incomparable when pitted against the other areas.

Prime problems: Molly, China Doll

Rest Day Activities

The Crab Cooker hot spring was a brilliant way to spend a couple hours in the evening, and the hike loop of the Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest was a neat excursion, though a bit tiring following a fitter bloke than me at 3000m!

Death Valley I suppose was also a rest day activity, but a bit far from Bishop itself unless you’re particularly keen.

Plenty of other things to do for such a small town, Mammoth Mountain isn’t too far for a bit of snowsports, but unless you hike, climb, ski or snowboard, you might end up being a bit bored.

What Wasn’t So Good?

Red Rocks

Don’t get me wrong, it was pretty decent! I certainly wouldn’t complain if I was a Vegas resident, it would be a great area to have on my doorstep, but it’s not somewhere I would make an effort to return to specifically. It just wasn’t quite as good as Bishop. The rock was less grippy, but also wasn’t bulletproof to make up for it like the Happies or Sads. The lines seemed to be not quite as strongly pronounced, and landings a bit worse. Perhaps the roped climbing is considered more world-class than the bouldering?

Favourite blocs: Angel Dyno, Monkey Wrench

We struggled to find accomodation in Summerlin near the climbing, but that was likely a result of the F1, but I think it was a good decision to stay on the strip just for the experience of it.

Las Vegas

Again, it was decent, and all things considered I did enjoy myself, but I’m certainly not the target audience for the strip of Sin City. I knew this going into it, and it was enjoyable, but the only thing I’d go back for is The Crack Shack. Mmmm.

If you’re a keen gambler and enjoy excess, you’d probably enjoy it quite a lot.

California Grocery Prices

Man, it’s bad. It was only a little bit more expensive to eat out every night, which had the great convenience of not dealing with the shared kitchen and washing dishes. Even “cheap” stuff like oats were kinda expensive! It seems to be the perfect storm, Cali is a high CoL state anyway, coupled with Bishop being in the arse end of nowhere, things are going to end up costing a bit more.

That said, a nice cashier in Vons let me use his staff discount for one shop, which is amazing hospitality that I don’t think I’ve ever experienced in the UK or Europe. Sound bloke.

Buttermilk Downclimbs

Yeah, some of these are just a bit exposed or dicey. Always worth inspecting beforehand!

What Would I Go Back For?

The Pollen Grains

It’s pretty much the only significant sector that I didn’t quite get to visit. It’s got another clutch of classic blocs, all made of that same Buttermilk magic: big rounded eggs with grippy holds and good landings!

The Sherwin Plateau

The rock here has been described as similar to the Happies, but being a bit away from it all, I find myself intrigued for a visit, if only for a day. There are not many uber-classics, but plenty of tasty looking boulders indeed.

The Druid Stones, Again

While I visited once, my body was tired and skin thin, so didn’t get to try many of the badass lines. There was a certain aura about this area, a particular peacefulness that is luring me back despite the approach.

The Buttermilks, Again

It’s just so extensive! Aside from the unfinished business, there are loads more classic blocs that I didn’t get round to trying, despite having loads on my list. From normal-height stuff like Seven Spanish Angels to the big rigs like High Planes Drifter, there’s loads I’m keen for.